Wednesday, October 15, 2025

Prince of the Prairie

 Lazy Notes for a Lazy Race...

Somewhere in Hell (a.k.a.: Kansas). PC: Mile90 Photo.


1) I love mountains, but there's a special place in my heart for an endless expanse of prairie. It is, for me, the quintessential American landscape. Only about 4% of the original tallgrass prairie remains today, a majority of it in the Flint Hills of Kansas. So, on the weekend of the 10th anniversary of my first 100 miler, I ventured from the fake Gateway to the West (St. Louis) through the real Gateway to the West (Kansas City) and on down to the tallgrass prairies of the Kansas Flint Hills for the Heartland 100.

2) Heartland 100 is old school. Like, laid back podunk old school. I mean that as a compliment. Compared to most races these days, it's dirt cheap at around $200. There wasn't even a pre-race meeting, you just showed up and checked in an hour before the race as if you were casually popping into a local 5k. And the race packet: 1 bib, 1 set of cheapo bib clips, 1 collapsible cup, 1 prairie/race themed calendar, and the world's cheapest technical long sleeve shirt. Simple. The aid station fare: unremarkable, but sufficient.

3) The course is an out and back that meanders along prairie/ranching roads, almost exclusively gravel, rock, and packed dirt. And while it is Kansas, it isn't "canal style" pancake flat, with around 5,000' of rolling hills, frequently topping out for truly breathtaking views of wide-open expanse. It's one thing to feel isolated and in the wild in the middle of the mountains or a forest, but it's another thing entirely to feel like you're floating, unmoored, on endless miles of open grassland with the sole sign of humanity in sight being the worn-down dirt road you're travelling on.

4) Race day conditions were brutal. Temperatures reached the low-mid 80s. And it's the prairie, so there's literally no shade or shelter from the elements from sun-up to sun-down. And it's October so typical summer training conditions that elicit heat adaptations are long gone. I tried to be proactive, but only snuck in a few sauna sessions before the race, and it most certainly was not enough. A little after 10am, the sun made itself known. I spent about 3 hours trying to slow down, fighting off heat exhaustion. I felt like I was hardly moving. I went from comfortably moving at course record pace (~14:30) for the first 50k to arriving at the turn around in 7:45 -- a 30minute setback in less than 20 miles. For the next few hours, I tolerated the heat better, but the pace remained slow all the way to sun-down. That heat plus exposure was the most exhausting race condition I've ever experienced. I'd honestly say it was worth another 5-7k feet of vert, meaning it likely added 60-90minutes to my finishing time.

5) When I first put Heartland on the calendar, I wanted to take a crack at the course record of ~14:25. But after Hardrock, I didn't put in very good training, and I gained like 10 pounds. So I thought, maybe 15:30. Then I popped my hamstring 3 weeks before race day on a stupid, pointless track workout and I thought, maybe 16:30. Then I had to run in 85 degree punishing sun and I thought, man I'm so slow and I suck so bad.

6) Just as was written, I got to watch the sun go down in a limpid, gold-washed sky and settle into the distant hillside. Though unlike Jim and Antonia, I saw no plough resting against the horizon, heroic in size, a picture writing on the sun. Instead, I was popping a squat, taking care of some business on an unfenced field of tallgrass, admiring the view. Not quite as poetic as Willa Cather had once written, but memorable nonetheless.

7) After sunset, I didn't dare try and pick up the pace, for fear of aggravating my hamstring, so I continued to plod along slowly, walking every little hill. I frequently stopped, turned off my headlamp, and gazed in awe at the stars and soaked in a darkness nearly devoid of light pollution. I contemplated lying down on the ground for awhile, but was a tad afraid of throwing a cramp in my hamstring whenever I'd try to get back up, so, instead, just more standing in darkness.

8) As I approached the final turn onto the paved road back into town, I heard a train, doing its thing, a mile or two away. Then I realized we were heading in the same direction, and a train crossing stood between me and the finish line. I tried picking up the pace while I assessed just where the train was, and quickly realized I'd never make it. I approached the crossing just as the gate arms lit up and lowered. And then I stood there for what felt like 4 minutes, watching the train whiz by in the night. After it passed and the gate arms rose, I casually walked the final 200 yards to the finish. Stupid ass train!



9) My reward for a victory, in 17:15 or so: another buckle, a knockoff super bowl ring to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the race, and a decorative cutting board in the shape of the state of Kansas -- cuz yeah, who doesn't want a cutting board (my 3rd or 4th cutting board running award) to remind them of their greatest regret in life … having been born in Kansas.

Bling.

This cutting board should be blank, because there's nothing at all worth acknowledging in the state of Kansas.


10) Now, from 100% country roads to 100% single track -- Ozark Trail 100 is less than 2 weeks away.



Friday, March 14, 2025

Learning to Ice Skate

Shippey 2025

The world doesn't need another race report describing how I ran a lot, ate a lot, and complained a lot. Probably why I have a 1 year backlog on race reports….


(10minute read)


I thought this one could be fun.


The weekend before MLK Day, I took another crack at my local 100 miler, 10 minutes from my house, on some pretty sweet trails in a Boy Scout camp. The trail conditions were … performance limiting … to say the least.


I thought I'd give a run-down of the winter weather and trail conditions that we experienced at Shippey this year, to shine some more light on this stupid sport and what it's like to run for a long-ass time in the dead of winter.


The Run-up:

2 weeks before the race, STL got hit with a winter storm. Hours of sleet and then 4-6" of snow. All of the early sleet formed sheets of ice multiple inches thick, screwing up transportation (and extending Winter Break) for an eternity. Then, another round of snow a few days later.


A week before the race, a bunch of us got together to run sections of the course, frolicking in a winter wonderland of fresh powder. It was glorious!


The 2 days before the race saw sun and temps reaching nearly 60. Snow melted, water run-off was everywhere, and all that was left was dense packs of ice and crusty snow. …Oh, and then it rained the night before the race. …And then a polar vortex sent temps plummeting. Forecasts were for the wind chill to steadily decrease to 0 throughout the race.


Screws? Nah!:

At the pre-race meeting, a few folks discussed adding sheet metal screws to their shoes (or using yak-tracks). I quickly brushed aside the idea. I am smarter, tougher, more experienced, and cooler than everyone else, and I say that screws will be unnecessary!


Let's Make Things Unnecessarily Difficult:

In 2023 when I ran Shippey, I ran it self-sufficient -- stopping only twice, at Mile 37 and Mile 70, to restock my pack. For 2025, I decided to up the ante and attempt to run completely "unsupported", starting the race with everything I'd need, save for a planned stop somewhere in the race to refill water, as if I were stopping at a creek in the middle of nowhere during an FKT attempt. Spare gear and over 6000 calories clocked in at exactly 15 pounds strapped to my back. If I ran into a problem, my solution had to be somewhere in my pack, or else.


I strolled up to the starting line looking like a complete idiot!


Loop 1:

From the get-go, just before dawn, in 30 degree temps, it became clear the ice was thicker and stronger than I had anticipated. Despite south-facing hillsides being nearly devoid of ice or snow, there was still a surprising amount of slick stuff on the trails. And anywhere that wasn't south facing … woah boy! Everyone was sliding and falling constantly. The rain and temps had coated the entire area in a deathly glaze of ungodly slick ice.


Even in places with barely any ice on the trails, it was still treacherous. The RD likes to leaf blow the course ahead of time to help shore up the often underutilized trail network and make it more pronounced, for the betterment of all. But, it has a cost. If there is a winter freeze thaw cycle during the race, it can create a muddy mess on the trails because there's no leaf matter to bind with the mud. And this year, even the slightest fraction of an inch of ice now had a firm foundation of solid ground to prevent footfalls from cracking it and breaking it up.


For many stretches, particularly downhills, there was a fun gamble to be made. Intentionally run just off the trail in the hopes the ice was thin enough and that the underlying layer of leaves/grass/sticks/whatever compromised the integrity of the ice layer, letting you crush your way through it with each footfall, providing much needed traction. Sometimes it worked. Sometimes you just fell on your ass as you careened downhill into one tree, and then another, hoping, praying the ice would crack.


At one point, there's a particularly steep hill -- The Water Cistern Hill -- around 25%. It faces northwest so it never received enough sunlight to melt the ice and snow away, and it received head-on wind after the rain came down the night before. Slick as an ice rink. I could not for the life of me toe-in to get any traction. I scrambled and dove for trees alongside the trail, but kept wiping out and sliding back down. Finally, I gave up and pulled out my cheater poles in the hopes of gaining the tiniest modicum of grip. It took me an eternity to get up that stupid 200' hill. Perhaps the single most frustrating moment of running I have ever experienced.


By the end of the loop, my pack felt like a ton of bricks. I rolled in a solid 2min/mile slower than my Loop 1 from 2023.


I really, really wished I had screws. But I didn't start out with them so it violated my unsupported mentality. That said, a lot of people later complained that even screws didn't provide enough grip into the ice. Also, rumor has it crews bought out the entire region's supply of yak-traks during the race.


Loop 2:

The sun came out. I could benefit from everyone else who'd used screws or yak-tracks and ever-so-slightly ground out particles of ice that spread along the surface, creating a small bit of grit that the sun and wind froze into place. There were tons of ice scratches all over the place where other runners' screws kinda-sort-but-not-really bit into the ice on the prior loop.


The jeep road sections were icy slush, formed from the surface layers over the mud puddles being cracked and broken. And a lot of south-facing stretches of trail turned to muck from the mid-day water runoff. I only lost my shoe in a vat of mud one time!


Some stretches, the sun just made things worse. By the midpoint of Loop 2, I probably bit it 15 times in the span of 3 hours, failing to adapt to the changing trail/ice conditions. Landing hard on my ass here, sliding off the side of the trail there. After one of my falls, which capped a stretch of maybe 5 in a half hour, I simply laid there in a modified child's pose and treated myself to a little meal of gels and granola bars until I built up the resolve to carry on.


After 40 miles, I'd felt like I'd run 80. Every minor muscle in my legs was completely shot from all of the slipping around. My core felt like I'd been punched repeatedly.


Loop 3:

This was a transition loop for the trails in the late afternoon. Plenty of grit was accumulating on the icy stretches, but it was also peak mud.


A unique feature revealed itself on the Water Cistern Hill. Postholing from the prior week of course scouting and flagging left shallow depressions in the ice layer, like mini moguls. Enough runners with screws and yak-tracks had used these barely-visible depressions and carved out additional nanometers of the ice. Sometimes it was enough for cavalier steps, and sometimes it was still too slick. For me, the hill resembled a rock climbing route that I had to plan out. See that pyramidal rock sticking out 2mm from the ice?! Can you lock one of your shoe's lugs on it to get enough grip? Can you make it over there to the rotten log barely sticking out of the ice? Oooh, look at that series of depressions! You'll probably only slip off 1 or 2 of those this time around!


One section of the course has 3 creek crossings within 30 minutes. Bone chilling cold that would numb your feet for miles afterwards. The first 2 loops they didn't bother me. But by the 3rd loop, I would've happily spent 10 minutes at each crossing devising a complicated series of rocks and logs to cross over safely. Too bad all of the rocks and logs were encased in inches of ice! My neuroma was shocked by the cold water every time, and the next few miles felt like running on thumbtacks.


Loop 4:

Night set in and the muck started to freeze. Stretches of jeep roads had fields of razor sharp ice shards sticking out of the re-freezing mud, always surrounded by sneakily slick ice patches. There were a few times where I thought, "If I slip and fall the wrong way, I just might impale my neck and bleed to death out here … awesome."


Miraculously, most of the water runoff began to dissipate, and many stretch of mud hardened over into fairly runnable chunks of trail. But picking up the pace was always a daring proposition because there was still tons of ice littered along the trails and putting your foot down 1cm from where you intended would result in your feet flying out from under you and crashing hard onto the frozen hellscape.


Loop 5:

Trail conditions actually improved as the temps plummeted. More and more grit accumulated on the icy surfaces, and more and more mud turned to ice-free dirt. But the cold hit hard and I found my bottles freezing rapidly. I spent much of the final hours of the race persistently chewing my bottle nozzles, trying to break up the ice before it completely blocked the flow. With 2 hours to go, my nozzles were frozen shut and the liquids in the bottles began to freeze, too. My remaining calories were all gels, which froze solid. For the final 90 minutes I consumed nothing, save for whatever snot and ice accumulated on my mustache. But hey, there was a heck of a lot more runnable trail. Tradeoffs!



I'd break out the course conditions about like this:

  • 20% runnable dry ground -- mostly the tail end of the race after the mud re-froze
  • 15% mud
  • 30% ice
  • 35% crusty snow and ice that sometimes had enough grit, if you were lucky and stepped in just the right spot with just the right amount of force and momentum



Etcetera that no one cares about…

After each loop I spent 7-10 minutes to sit down in the Start/Finish building and re-organize my pack with the next round of nutrition. Reflecting the way I'd operate if I were doing a 100-150 mile unsupported FKT. It was good to feel out that process.


I spent 30 minutes on course not moving -- swapping gear, organizing something, eating, desperately looking for a way to cross a creek without soaking my feet, figuring out another way to strap those godforsaken poles to my pack so they didn't clang or get loose or dig into my side.


I started out with a nano puffy that works well in sub-30 temps. I thought it'd be fine given the lower level of effort required from the slower running conditions and the wind chill, but there was still plenty of dead-air hollows throughout the course, and the morning sun had me changing gear within 90 minutes of starting the race. For most of the race I had a mid-weight long sleeve and a Houdini wind breaker. Sometimes I had to take off the Houdini during the day. But I had so much shit in my pack that I couldn't simply wrap the Houdini over the pack to take it on and off. Anytime I needed to take it off or put it on, I had to stop and take off my pack. I'm honestly a bit amazed I finished the race wearing just a long-sleeve and a Houdini when some of the ridges clearly had wind chills in the range of -5.


God help you if you tried to get something out of your pack or open food packaging while running! After the first couple crashes from attempting to multi-task while navigating ice patches, I either had to wait for strategic locations on the course, or just stop dead in my tracks.


I usually love running in snow, and I have many fond memories of winter long runs in Shenandoah and Rock Creek Park in DC. I find it peaceful, the crisp, cold, clean air, just you and the crunching snow beneath your feet. But man oh man, I did not enjoy a full day on ice. I really hope I don't have race conditions like that ever again.